Lesson 13

Question 1

What constantly modifies the shoreline?

Answer 1

waves

Question 2

What is the coastal zone experiencing today?

Answer 2

intense human activity

Question 3

What is common boundary?

Answer 3

shoreline

Question 4

What is a dynamic interface between air, land, and the ocean?

Answer 4

shoreline

Question 5

What provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines?

Answer 5

Wind-generated waves

Question 6

Where do waves derive their energy and motion from?

Answer 6

wind

Question 7

What does the height, length, and period of a wave depend on?

Answer 7

Wind speed
Length of time wind has blown
Fetch

Question 8

What is the distance between a trough and a crest?

Answer 8

Wave height

Question 9

What is the time interval between the passage of two successive crests?

Answer 9

Wave period

Question 10

What is used to measure a wave?

Answer 10

wave height
wavelength
wave period

Question 11

What is the distance that the wind has traveled across open water?

Answer 11

Fetch

Question 12

What is the horizontal distance between crests?

Answer 12

Wavelength

Question 13

What is the top of the wave called?

Answer 13

crest

Question 14

What is the low area between waves?

Answer 14

low area between waves

Question 15

What are the types of waves?

Answer 15

Wave of oscillation

Wave of translation

Question 16

What wave has energy that moves forward, but not the water itself?

Answer 16

Wave of oscillation

Question 17

Where does waves of oscillation occur?

Answer 17

in open sea in deep water

Question 18

What happens when the translation wave begins to form?

Answer 18

the wave begins to “feel bottom”

Question 19

Where does a translation wave form?

Answer 19

shallow water

depth of 1/2 the wavelength

Question 20

What happens to a translation wave as the speed and length diminish?

Answer 20

the wave grows higher

Question 21

What collapses in a translation wave before it breaks along the shore?

Answer 21

steep wave front

Question 22

What advances up the shore in a translation wave and forms a surf?

Answer 22

turbulent water

Question 23

What is erosion from the great force of breaking waves caused by?

Answer 23

wave impact and pressure

abrasion by rock fragments

Question 24

Where does wave refraction cause wave energy to concentrate?

Answer 24

against the sides and ends of headlands

Question 25

Where does wave energy end up caused by wave refraction and what happens to the wave attack?

Answer 25

spread out in bays | weakened

Question 26

What is wave retraction?

Answer 26

Bending of a wave

Question 27

What causes waves to arrive nearly parallel to the shore?

Answer 27

wave refraction

Question 28

What is the consequence of wave refraction overtime?

Answer 28

erosion straightens an irregular shoreline

Question 29

What is waves that each the shoreline at an angle cause the sediment to move along a beach in a zigzag pattern?

Answer 29

beach drift

Question 30

What waves also produce longshore currents?

Answer 30

Oblique waves

Question 31

What does wave refraction do to sand?

Answer 31

moves it along the beach

Question 32

What are longshore currents?

Answer 32

Currents in the surf zone

Question 33

How do longshore currents flow?

Answer 33

parallel to the coast

Question 34

What do longshore currents easily move and roll?

Answer 34

fine suspended sand | larger sand and gravel

Question 35

What factors caused shoreline features to vary? _____along the shore ______ Wave _______ Whether the coast is _____, _______, or _____

Answer 35

rocks currents intensity stable, sinking, or rising

Question 36

What are features caused by wave erosion?

Answer 36

Wave-cut cliffs | Wave-cut platform

Question 37

What are features associated with headlands?

Answer 37

Sea arch | Sea stack

Question 38

Features related to beach drift and longshore currents ______ ________ of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay Often the end of a spit ______in response to wave-generated currents

Answer 38

spits Elongated ridges hooks landward

Question 39

What are features related to beach drift and longshore currents?

Answer 39

Baymouth bar Tombolo Barrier islands

Question 40

What is a sand bar that completely crosses a bay?

Answer 40

Baymouth bar

Question 41

What is a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or another island?

Answer 41

Tombolo

Question 42

What is the result of shoreline erosion and deposition if the shoreline remains stable?

Answer 42

produce a straighter coast

Question 43

Where are barrier island mostly found?

Answer 43

Atlantic and Gulf Coasts

Question 44

What are low ridges of sand that parallel the coast 3 to 30 kilometers offshore?

Answer 44

barrier islands

Question 45

How do barrier islands probably form?

Answer 45

in many ways

Question 46

Shoreline erosion is influenced by several local factors including: ______ to sediment-laden rivers _______ of tectonic activity ________ and composition of the land Prevailing _____ and _____patterns Configuration of the ______ and nearshore areas

Answer 46

``` Proximity Degree Topography wind and weather coastline ```

Question 47

What are the three basic responses to erosion problems?

Answer 47

Building structures Beach nourishment Abandonment and relocation of buildings away from the beach

Question 48

What are building structures that can be built?

Answer 48

Jetties Groins Breakwater Seawall

Question 49

Are building structures often an effective means of protection?

Answer 49

no

Question 50

What building structure is » Usually built in pairs to develop and maintain harbors » Extend into the ocean at the entrances to rivers and harbors

Answer 50

Jetties

Question 51

What building structure is » Built to maintain or widen beaches » Constructed at a right angle to the beach to trap sand

Answer 51

Groins

Question 52

What building structure is » Barrier built offshore and parallel to the coast » Protects boats from the force of large breaking waves

Answer 52

Breakwater

Question 53

What building structure is » Barrier parallel to shore and close to the beach to protect property » Stops waves form reaching the beach areas behind the wall

Answer 53

Seawall

Question 54

What is the addition of large quantities of sand to the beach system?

Answer 54

Beach nourishment

Question 55

Beach nourishment is only an economically viable ______ solution if a few areas

Answer 55

long-range

Question 56

Shoreline erosion problems are ______ along the opposite coasts.

Answer 56

different

Question 57

Which coast has broad, gently sloping coastal plains?

Answer 57

Atlantic and Gulf coast

Question 58

Which coast has tectonically quiet regions?

Answer 58

Atlantic and Gulf coast

Question 59

Which coast has relatively narrow beaches backed by steep cliffs and mountain ranges?

Answer 59

Pacific Coast

Question 60

What is a major problem at the Pacific coast?

Answer 60

narrowing of many beaches

Question 61

What are barrier islands also called?

Answer 61

barrier beaches | coastal barriers

Question 62

Which coast as development that occurs mainly on the barrier islands that face the open ocean?

Answer 62

Atlantic and Gulf coast

Question 63

Which coast has shoreline erosion that varies considerably from one year to the next largely because of the sporadic occurrence of storms?

Answer 63

Pacific coast

Question 64

What coast receives the full force of storms?

Answer 64

Atlantic and Gulf coast

Question 65

What develops because of uplift of an area or a drop in sea level?

Answer 65

Emergent coasts

Question 66

What are features of an emergent coast?

Answer 66

Wave-cut cliffs | Wave-cut platforms

Question 67

What is caused by subsidence of land adjacent to the sea or a rise in sea level?

Answer 67

Submergent coast

Question 68

What are features of a submergent coast?

Answer 68

Highly irregular shoreline | Estuaries

Question 69

What are Estuaries?

Answer 69

They drown river mouths

Question 70

What are daily changes in the elevation of the ocean surface?

Answer 70

tides

Question 71

What causes tidal bulges?

Answer 71

gravitational forces of the Moon, and to a lesser extent the Sun

Question 72

What type of tide has a large daily tidal range?

Answer 72

spring tides

Question 73

What type of tide has the least daily tidal range?

Answer 73

neap tides

Question 74

What tide occurs during new and full moons?

Answer 74

spring tides

Question 75

What tides occur during the first and third quarters of the moon?

Answer 75

neap tides

Question 76

What tide occurs when gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun are added together?

Answer 76

spring tides

Question 77

What tide occurs when gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun are offset?

Answer 77

neap tides

Question 78

What tide is especially high and low tides?

Answer 78

spring tides

Question 79

What are other factors that influence tides?

Answer 79

Shape of the coastline | Configuration of the ocean basin

Question 80

What is the horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise and fall of the tide?

Answer 80

tidal currents

Question 81

What re the types of tidal currents?

Answer 81

Flood current | Ebb current

Question 82

What current advances into the coastal zone as the tide rises?

Answer 82

Flood current

Question 83

What current has seaward-moving water as the tide falls?

Answer 83

Ebb current

Question 84

What are areas affected by the tidal currents called? | What do tidal currents occasionally form?

Answer 84

tidal flats | tidal deltas