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Cosmetics Lec - K > Moisturizers > Flashcards

Moisturizers Flashcards

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1
Q

Hygroscopic substances that increase
water content of top layer of the skin by
enhancing water absorption from dermis
into epidermis

A

Humectants

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2
Q

Replace lost NMF

A

Humectants

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3
Q

T/F: Humectants attracts water on the
surface, then water will evaporate

A

True

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4
Q

Humectants are often used together with _________

A

occlusives

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5
Q

example of occlusives

A

Glycerin

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6
Q

Designed to plasticize, soften and
smoothen the skin, by filling void spaces
between the corneocytes and replacing
lost lipids in the SC

A

Emollients

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7
Q
  • Provide protection and lubrication on skin
    surface to minimize chafing and enhance
    skin’s aesthetic smoothness and softness
A

Emollients

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8
Q

Create hydrophobic barrier to physically
block TEWL from the SC

A

Occlusives

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9
Q

T/F: Occlusives may be sticky, not easy to remove, and leave
a greasy feel

A

True

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10
Q

Example of Occlusives

A

petrolatum

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11
Q

Restore, protect, and enhance the
skin’s barrier function

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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12
Q

Include skin proteins like keratin,
elastin and collagen

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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13
Q

Leave protein film that appears to
smoothen the skin and stretch fine
wrinkles

A

Skin Rejuvenators

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14
Q

Skin moisturizer formulation

A

Emulsifier, Thickening, Water, Preservatives, Antioxidants, Fragrances, Sunscreens, Colorants, Aesthetic Agents, Electrolytes, Functional Ingredients

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15
Q

Included in W/Si emulsions at 1-2% to
improve formulations’ stability

A

Electrolytes

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16
Q

T/F: Silicon is not greasy and is ideal for
oily skin

A

True

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17
Q

Include natural additives, vitamins,
peptides and proteins, essential fatty
acids, hydroxy acids (exfollients), and
β-glucans (immune protection and aid
in healing)

A

Functional
Ingredients

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18
Q

Facial moisturizers are typically ___________ emulsions, while hand &
body moisturizers are W_______ type

A

O/W; W/O

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19
Q

T/F: O/W Facial moisturizers are ideal for oily skin as it is not greasy

A

True

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20
Q

s allow sustained release of
entrapped materials

A

Multiple emulsions (W/O/W) e

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21
Q

used to avoid
unpleasant reactions and prevent irritant dermatitis

A

Barrier creams or skin protective creams

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22
Q

______ skin : humectants, occlusives and emollients (all)

A

Dry skin

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23
Q

______ skin: water-based systems

A

oily

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24
Q

______ skin: more of humectants and emollients

A

Normal

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25
DETERMINATION OF EMULSION TYP
Conductivity, Solubility, Dispersion by dilution
26
An assembly in which a pair of electrodes connected to an electric bulb is dipped into the emulsion
Conductivity measurement
27
Using either oil-soluble or water-soluble dye, one of the phases of an emulsion can be stained and checked under a microscope
Solubility
28
Emulsions can be diluted with their external phase
Dispersion by dilution
29
Dilution of internal phase leads to
breaking of emulsion
30
based on changes in the electrical properties of the SC, where amount of current is directly related to water content
conductance equipment
31
determined based on behavior as a dielectric medium
Capacitance
32
principle used in corneometer
capacitance equipment
32
In corneometer: the _________ (higher/lower) number = better moisturized
higher
32
used as indicater of skin's barrier function
TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)
32
Two types of TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)
Open and Closed chamber
33
TEWL should ___________ if moisturizing agent is effective
decrease
34
good indicator of moisturizing effect
Desquamation
35
film captures the surface of the skin and compare it to standards
Desquamation
36
measure of transparency based on the oil present
Sebum
37
ease with which the product is absorbed after application
Rub-out
38
: behavior of product on the skin while it is being spread
Break
39
how the product glides on the skin
Slip
40
Aestheric properties
Rub-out, Appearance, Pick-up, Greasiness, Tackiness, Break, Slip, After-feel, Delayed after-feel
41
Skin whitening Classification: Special-purpose cosmetic
China
42
Skin whitening Classification: Medicated cosmetic
Taiwan
43
Skin whitening Classification: Quasi-drug
Japan
44
Skin whitening Classification: Functional cosmetics
S. Korea
45
Skin whitening Classification: OTC drugs
US
46
Skin whitening Classification: Comsetic
Europe
47
Organelle where melanin production occurs
Melanosome
48
melanocytes are found in the stratum ________
basale
49
T/F: number of melanocytes do not significantly differ despite difference in color
true
50
found inside the melanocytes; melanogenesis happens here
melanosome
51
T/F: melanocytes are not like keratinocytes that actively divides
True
52
T/:F: throughout lifetime melanocytes maintain the same number
true
53
how does the melanin reach SC?
-it is a dendritic cell, that is attached to the keratinocyte
54
Factors that account the difference in skin colors (Genatically Determined)
Greater number of melanosomes Producing a greater number of melanin Producing a darker shade of melanin
55
Darker pigment melanin
Eumelanin
56
Yellowish red melanin
Pheomelanin
57
T/F: melanin is a UV filter
true
58
_________ can trigger the production of melanin
UV rays
59
____________ is natural skin photo protectant
Melanin
60
T/F: You can’t only have a whitening active, it should be coupled with a sunscreen agent either in the same product or separate product that you apply after
True
61
main substrate and the starting material of melanogenesis
Tyrosine
62
It is the rate limiting step of melanogenesis
Tyrosinase
63
Tyrosine requires Tyrosinase to be converted into ___________
Dopaquinone
64
Dopaquinone would be the starting material for: (1) DHI (2) Dopachrome (3) Leuko Dopachrome resulting ultimately in ____________
Eumelanin
65
Dopaquinone would also be the starting material for Cysteinyl Dopa resulting ultimately in ___________
Pheomelanin
66
both sulfur containing compounds
Glutathione or Cysteine
67
genetically-determined level of melanin in the skin that is not influenced by exogenous or endogenous factors
CONSTITUTIVE PIGMENTATION
68
designates an induced level of increased epidermal melanin content as a result of environmental factors such as (UV) solar radiation or hormones
FACULTATIVE PIGMENTATION
69
Paths to fairer skin
Tyrosinase Inhibition Interruption of melanosome transfer . Increased epidermal turnover and desquamation
70
The inhibitor would occupy the active site, it would compete against substrate for the active site
Competitive inhibitor
71
The inhibitor would attach itself to another site/part in the enzyme.
Noncompetitive inhibitor
72
The inhibitor would allow the enzyme-substrate complex to form
Uncompetitive inhibitor
73
influences release of melanin particles via dendritic tips
sAPP
74
mediates melanosomal transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes
PAR-2
75
sAPP meaning
soluble N-terminal ectodomain of ß-amyloid precursor protein
76
PAR-2 meaning
Protease activated receptor-2
77
Interruption of melanosome transfer involves the blockage and inhibition of
sAPP and PAR-2
78
Hydroquinone inhibits _________ activity
tyrosinase
79
God standard of Skin lightening actives
Hydroquinone
80
Arbutin inhibits _________ activity
tyrosinase
81
Inhibition of catecholase activity of tyrosinase
Kojic acid
82
: Melanin inhibition in melanoma cells
Azelaic acid
83
Inhibition of melanosome transfer
Niacinamide
84
Common active for ponds
Niacinamide
85
Inhibits protease-activated receptor 2 cleavage
Soyabean
86
Promotes skin desquamation
α-Hydroxy acid and Retinoic acid
87
Promotes skin desquamation but not allowed for cosmetic use
Retinoic acid
88
antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase activity
Vit C
89
Is Azelaic acid allowed for cosmetic use
No
90
Measuring the erythema (redness) and melanin index (count of the amount of melanin
Mexameter
91
To know that skin whitening is effective, erythema and melanin index should both __________
decrease
92
Chromameter measures
Lightness, red/green coordinate, yellow/blue coordinate
93
should increase over time if it the whitening product is effective
94
most important structural element of intracellular lipis of SC
Ceramides
95
link protein rich corneocytes into a waterproof barrier to protect underlying skin tissues and regulate body homeostasis
ceramides
96
reduce dry skin symptoms
ceramides

Cosmetics Lec - K (13 decks)

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