Weaves and Weaving

Question 1

• Method of fabric formation
• Interlacing of warp or float and filling or weft
• Three general heading: Plain, Twill and Satin, all others are variation or combinations

Answer 1

Weaving

Question 2

Term for lengthwise yarns

Answer 2

Warp / Float

Question 3

Term for crosswise yarns

Answer 3

Weft or Filling

Question 4

Term for lengthwise edges of the fabric

Answer 4

Selvages

Question 5

• Device used to weave cloth

- Purpose is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weaft threads

Answer 5

Loom

Question 6

Type of floor loom that controls the warp threads using a device called a dobby

Answer 6

Dobby loom

Question 7

• Mechanical loom, simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with complex patterns.
• It is controlled by punched cards with punched holes, each row corresponds to one row of the design.
• Multiple rows of holes are punched on each card and the many cards used are strung together in order

Answer 7

Jacquard Loom

Question 8

• Kind of weave
• Simple interweaving of
  warp and weft threads
• Each warp passes over and under the weft yarns
• No particular surface pattern or texture
• Wears well but tends to wrinkle
• May be single, double, regular or irregular

Answer 8

Plain Weave

Question 9

• Plain weave

- One weft thread passes over each warp thread

Answer 9

Plain single weave

Question 10

• Plain single weave
• Weave is balanced in sequence or over and under so the warp and weft yarn have the same counter per square inch
• A.k.a. as a tabby or taffeta weave
• Simplest and strongest weave

Answer 10

Regular weave

Question 11

• Plain single weave
• When warp and weft differ because of the different weight and textures of the yarn
• Novelty yarns vary in appearance
• Called ‘unbalanced weave’

Answer 11

Irregular weave

Question 12

• Plain weave
• Two or more weft threads are interlaced into the same number of warp threads
• When the weave is regular, it is called a backed cloth
• May also be irregular due to variations of weight or texture

Answer 12

Plain Double or Basket Weave

Question 13

• Plain weave
• Weft yarn is heavier than the warp yarn
• Result of a diagonal texture becoming more apparent

Answer 13

Rib Weave

Question 14

• Kind of weave
• Each warp yarn passes over and then under the weft yarns
• Sequence is started slightly higher or lower on each yarn meaning it is offset by one thread from the previous weft thread
• Predominantly diagonal pattern
• Resists soil, wrinkle less and flexible and drapeable than plain weaves of similar quality ex: herringbone weave

Answer 14

Twill Weave

Question 15

• Kind of weave
• Weave that emphasizes the continuous weft yarn: with as few interruptions of warp as possible
• Warp yarns skips four to seven weft yarns
• Weft yarns are often finer and practically invisible on the right face of the textile
• ‘Float’ or unwoven yarns produce a smooth, shiny, light-reflective surface
• Weft yarns dominate the back of the textile

Answer 15

Satin Weave

Question 16

• Term for a variation made of mercerized cotton

- Filler yarns dominate the face of the textile

Answer 16

Sateen

Question 17

• Kind of weave
• Woven in such a way as to create loops or piles that stand out from the surface of the fabric
• Fabric is woven with three fibers; warp, weft and an extra set of either warp or weft fibers
• Once woven, these extra may be cut, uncut or a combination of both

Answer 17

Pile Weaves

Question 18

• Type of pile weave
• Weaving one of the two set of warp yarns into a plain weave to create a solid back while lifting the second set of warp yarns by means of a hook to form a loop slightly higher than backing weave

Answer 18

Velvet Pile

Question 19

• Type of pile weave

- Lifted yarns remain uncut. It may be combined with velvet pile to create a corduroy effect

Answer 19

Frise

Question 20

• Combinations or “Figured weave”
• Decorative fabric made by weaving colored weft thread alternatively over and under the warp threads to form a pictorial or ornamental design
• Has a rough feel
• Plain weave but is made in a special weave across the warp in sections with the weft yarns and interlocking in different ways

Answer 20

Tapestry

Question 21

What are the types of joint techniques used in a tapestry?

Answer 21

1. Interlocked Joint
2. Dovetail Joint
3. Slit Juncture
4. Diagonal Joint

Question 22

• Combinations or “Figured weave”
• Are those in which extra warp and weft yarns are added to the fabric during the weaving
• Inlay patter weaving was a well known art
• For commercial distribution, Jacquard loom is used
• There are several classifications of inlay weaves but they are called brocades

Answer 22

Extra Warp and Weft Pattern Weaves

Question 23

• Combinations or “Figured weave”
• Durable and beautiful fabrics used today were known to the ancient Peruvians
• Among the many varieties of this type, warp-faced pile weave and matelasse are the most common

Answer 23

Double-Cloth Weaves

Question 24

• Open or lace like weave
• Loose weave
• Warp threads are wound in half twists around each other and around a filler yarn to form a knot to keep the yarn from slipping
• Used for most loose, net-like casement textiles

Answer 24

Leno

Question 25

• Open or lace like weave
• Similar to Leno
• Difference is that the warp threads maintain the same position in relation to the weft
• Range from simple to complex
• Sheers, semi sheers and novelty casements employ these weaves

Answer 25

Gauze

Question 26

• Combinations or “Figured weave”
• Weaves in which uneven tension in either weft or warp yarns produces an uneven surface effect
• May be accomplished in a variety of ways with different effects

Answer 26

Tension and texture-related weave