Colorant Flashcards
(156 cards)
1
Q
COLOR COSMETICS
Function
A
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2
Q
COLOR COSMETICS
Product forms:
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3
Q
The actual number of colorants utilized is approximately
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4
Q
FOUNDATION/SKIN COLORANTS
Function
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5
Q
Degree of opacity can vary from
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6
Q
The finish provided can be ……
depending on the………
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7
Q
foundations include skin treatment functions
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.
8
Q
Preferred forms vary according to
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L
9
Q
United State, Europe, Japan
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.
10
Q
COVERAGE
It depends on the ability of a material to
A
.
11
Q
The greater the
difference in ……
between a …………
in which it is dispersed, the greater the degree of……
thus the greater the …..
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.
12
Q
Other properties that affect light-scattering:
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.
13
Q
Particles <350 nm in diameter,
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14
Q
Coverage is provided primarily by the white pigments
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.
15
Q
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
A
L
16
Q
is the white pigment most commonly.
A
.
17
Q
ZINC OXIDE
A
L
18
Q
Zinc oxide has a lower refractive index than….. and thus has lower…..
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.
19
Q
is a yellowish- white pigment providing coverage in shades for darker skin tones
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.
20
Q
results in an “ashy” appearance.
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.
21
Q
Kaolin
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22
Q
TALC
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23
Q
is the most common filler pigment used in foundations.
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.
24
Q
COLORED PIGMENTS
A
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25
SURFACE-TREATED PIGMENTS
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FRAGRANCE
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are the principal coloring oxides used in foundation makeup.
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almost all skin tones can be matched using the iron oxides.
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Pigment particles that are uniformly coated with a hydrophobic
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OIL IN WATER FOUNDATIONS
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POWDER FOUNDATION
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is the form of choice for powder foundation,
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A basic pressed powder consists of
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Metallic soaps of fatty acids,
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dry binders.
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Other materials that aid compaction are
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LIPSTICKS
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Dispersions of
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impart an attractive color
| and appearance to the lips
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have a treatment function,
providing an oily protective film to prevent
chapping (crack) and drying out of the lips'
sensitive mucous membranes.
.
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LIPSTICK INGREDIENTS
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COLORING MATERIALS
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How color is imparted to the lips
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With colored layer that serves to hide surface roughness and give smooth appearance
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Capable of penetrating the outer surface of the lips
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STAINING DYES
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Halogenated derivatives of fluorescein,"
bromoacids", a term originally applied to acid
Have brome and COOH
eosin, tetrabromofluorescein.
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EOSIN
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is an
If PH is less than 2 it gives :
insoluble orange compound that changes to
an intense red salt > pH2
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Also known as D&C Red No. 21,
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Disadvantages of eosin
L
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PIGMENTS
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Titanium dioxide N
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is an effective white
pigment for obtaining pink shades and giving
opacity to the film on the lips.
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BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
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alternative opacifier in
| pearlaceous shades.
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low oil absorption and a smooth feel on the
| skin and lips.
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are used for matching the russet
| and brown shades
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Surface-treated versions
| may be used to improve wetting.
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ORGANIC PIGMENTS
| Lakes; not purely organic or purely inorganic ( mix of both )
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provide
| the bright clean red, orange, and violet tone
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When the
| parent D&C color is subject to restriction,
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LIPID BASE MATERIALS
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the quality of the lipstick
during manufacture, storage, and use will be
determined for the most part by the
composition of the fatty base.
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The quality is largely concerned with the
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while
| holding the insoluble colors evenly dispersed.
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must set quickly with good
| surface and good release properties.
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During shelf life and usage life the stick must
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the stick must soften sufficiently in
| contact with the lips to form
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BROMOACID SOLVENTS
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are too non-polar to dissolve the dyes.
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Liquid fatty alcohols,
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dipropylene glycol
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highly polar
| esters,
;
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castor oil
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Mineral oils
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acts a solvent for bromoacid,
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high viscosity, even
| at elevated temperatures,
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excellent vehicle for pigment suspension and milling.
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contributes to gloss and emolliency,
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Excellent solvent for the waxes
| that give structure to lipsticks.
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LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOLS
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Good solvents for the polar waxes and bromoacids.
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are preferred to oleyl alcohol for Unsaturated
| their lower odor and lack of tendency to rancidity.
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contribute to slip during application
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act as co-solvents between polar and nonpolar materials in formulations
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Provide a glossy surface to the sticks and the lips.
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Mineral oil
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Provide the high melting points or the hardness.
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85 and 15%
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a very hard vegetable wax imparting
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providing contraction properties in the molding process.
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CARNAUBA WAX
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hard vegetable wax
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but it has
| a lower m.p. and is less brittle.
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CANDELILLA
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BEESWAX
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is the traditional stiffening agent
| for castor oil
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produce a grainy and dull
| :
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contribute to oil exudation,
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COCOA BUTTER,
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sharp m.p. just below the
| human body temperature.
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HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OILS
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More solid and less prone to rancidty
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LANOLIN
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Good solvent properties
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binding agents
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minimize sweating and cracking of
| the stick,
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plasticizers
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wetting out the
| pigments.
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the use of lanolin has declined.
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offer many of the advantages in a "cleaner"
| produc
.
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POLYETHYLENE
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raise the m.p.
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improve
| high temperature stability.
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can only be incorporated into formulations
having a significant level of nonpolar oils to
act as solvents..
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Must be heated above 90C to
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ADDITIONAL BASE INGREDIENTS
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WETTING AGENTS
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ANTIOXIDANTS
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PERFUMES
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MANUFACTURE OF LIPSTICKS
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LIP BALMS AND GLOSSES
L
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Low HLB surfactants,
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improve pigment wetting
| and dispersion,
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Lecithin.
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127
facilitating the
| application of the lipstick
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improving the adhesion
| to the lips.
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Slow the development of rancidity
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Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
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Butylated
| hydroxytoluene (BHT)
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propyl gallate,
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rosemary
| extract,
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citric acid
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mask the fatty odor
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should be nonirritating to the lips.
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grind to give evenly distributed color.
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to form the lipstick
| mass.
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mass into sticks.
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is used not for decoration but for protection
| against exposure to cold.
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A lip balm that is used as a
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142
softer than conventional lipsticks or are fluid,
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so packaged in vials with sponge applicators or roll-on applicators.
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Zinc stearate
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Magnesium myristate
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Lithium stearate
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3% to 8%
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Powdered polyethylene
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Powdered waxes
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isostearate, or -oleate
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primary emulsifier
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acts as a
| strong stabilizing mechanism.
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wet more easily into oil.
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154
and help wear of color.
.
155
Adsorb water and oils.
.
156
Improve pigment
| dispersion and stabilizer
.
