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Flashcards in Wax and Cosmetics Deck (69):

Should closely approximate the light refractive characteristics of skin.

Restorative Waxes


Various waxes, oils, starch, pigments, and scent.

Composition of Restorative Waxes


Like grease and will not adhere to tissues which are not firm and dry.

Properties of Restorative Waxes


  • Soft (surface restorer)
  • Medium (restorative)
  • Firm (wound filler)
  • Lip-wax

Types of Restorative Waxes


For small surface repairs.

Soft (Surface Restorer)


Firmer wax.

Medium (Restorative)


The hardest wax.

Firm (Wound Filler)


Very soft.

Lip Wax


Match the color of the wax to be used with the color of the applied cosmetics.

When Applying Restorative Waxes


  • Selecting the color of wax
  • Mixing colored waxes
  • Mixing a cream cosmetic with wax

Matching wax to cosmetics is best as it is noticed when:


Will eliminate the need for matching since both surfaces will be masked by its application.

Opaque Cosmetics


Examine a thick, smooth sample.

To check the color of the wax with the applied coloring


  • The color of the wax should be a little less vivid (slightly lighter) than the applied coloring.
  • Adjunct by the superficial application of the colorant that is lacking.

If you plan to approximate the wax color and make corrections after application:


It is much easier to __1__ wax than it is to make it __2__.

  1. Darken
  2. Lighter


  • One color matching
  • Two color matching
  • Multi color matching

Selection and Matching With Colored Wax


Some are:

  • Made to match approximate complexion colors.
  • To be mixed together.
  • To be mixed with cosmetics.

The colored waxes available are intended for different uses.


Waxes made to match approximate complexion colors.

  • Straw-colored wax
  • Other colors

One Color Matching


  • Many caucasians
  • Light-skin African-Americans
  • Asians

Straw-colored Wax is Effective on Many complexions


  • Razor burns
  • Sutured incisions
  • Small lacerations
  • Abrasions

Straw-colored Wax is Effective for Many Surface Restorations:


Those who purchase the entire range of colored waxes will be able to accomodate a wider range of complexions:

  • Dark
  • Medium or Dark (African-American)
  • Dark Asian

Other Colors of Wax


Mixing two colors of wax together when one color is not sufficient.

  • "Bulk" color
  • Second color

Two Color Matching


This is the first wax selected, that should be the closest to the applied coloring:

  • Lighter or least vivid is desirable

"Bulk" Color


This darker (or more vivid) color is gradually mixed into the bulk color to obtain the desired color.

The Second Color


Used chiefly for large scale restorations.

  • Supplies a great latitude in solving "problem" cases.
  • "Color Complex"

Multi-Color Matching


Basic colors of wax available from some manufacturers.

  • White
  • Yellow
  • Red
  • Brown

"Color Complex"


Another technique for wax coloring.

Cosmetics Mixed with Wax


The same transparent cream cosmetic or pigment powder used for the complexion coloring may be mixed with the wax.

When no Discoloration is Involved


Transparent liquid cosmetics for example have a vehicle not mixable with wax (alcohol).

Not all Cosmetics can be Mixed With Wax


  • Minor surface restorations (razor burns, sutured incisions)
  • Large area restoration

For Oil Based Transparent Cream Cosmetics Mixed with Wax


Wax mixed with a unitary cream cosmetic with an oily vehicle.

Minor Surface Restorations (Razor burns, sutured incisions).


Wax mixed with coordinating oil based complexion compounds allow the greatest latitude for color matching.

Large Area Restoration


  • To stimulate the denser (non-translucent) type of lip wax
  • Or ornamental purposes
  • For non-ornamental purposes

Concersion of Surface Restorer Wax into Lip Wax


Mix cream rouge with restorative wax.

  • If a firmer wax is used, compensate by adding a small amount of white petroleum jelly.

To stimulate the dense (non-translucent) Type of Lip-Wax


  • Brillant yellowish-red
  • Brownish-red
  • Pure red

For Ornamental Purposes (for lips) use:


  • Light, medium, or dark complexion red
  • To mottle- apply several dabs of brown

For Non-Ornamental Treatment (for lips) use:


  • Mucous membranes
  • Integumentary part

Where to Apply Wax and Cosmetics (on lips)


  • Wax- lip wax
  • Cosmetic- lip cosmetic

Mucous Membranes


  • Wax- flesh-colored wax
  • Cosmetic- complexion cosmetics

Integumentary Portion


The omission of the irregulary spaced vertical lines of the mucous membranes.

  • Fixed by vertical application

Major Fault of Lip Waxing


  • Eliminates sharp margins
  • Reinstates vertical lines

Vertical Application With the Brush


Another technique for coloring wax.

Pigment Powder Mixed with Wax


 The range of available colored waxes may be inadequate.

  • Wax may be mixed with:
    • Earthen pigments
    • Pigment powders

For medium-dark and dark-brown African-American complexions


  • Add the pigment powder progressively
  • Add a small amount of white petroleum jelly if necessary to counteract the powder.

To Achieve the Correct Color


Performed on abrasions, skin slip, etc., where the tissue discoloration will "show" through the wax unless cosmetically masked.

  • Trim any rough edges which may protrude through the applied wax.

Cosmetic Undercoat Applied Before Waxing


  • Mot satisfactory type
  • Opaque Cream Cosmetic

Types of Undercoats


A quick drying opaque liquid.

Mot Satisfactory Type


Used before opaque liquids where available.

  • Most susceptible to accidental removal when applying wax.
  • Must be dried with a powder before applying wax.

Opaque Cream Cosmetic (As undercoat)


The same as or slightly lighter than the complexion color.

Color of the Undercoat


  • A small soft brush
  • Cream cosmetic
  • Spray undercoat

Application of the Undercoat


Used for any type except spray.

A small, soft brush


Should be powdered

Cream cosmetic


Even with a templet (frisket) the spray may exceed the area.

  • Before the undercoat dries, feather it out.

Spray Undercoat


Shoud closely approximate the applied complexion coloring.

Color of the Wax


  • Any removed undercoat should be repaired.
  • Do not spread the wax across the area.
    • spreading may remove the undercoat
    • Creates a flat contour

Application of Wax on the Undercoat


  • Place the flattened mass of wax in the middle of the area.
  • With a spatula, taper the wax toward the margins.

Correct Application of Wax on an Undercoat


Restorative wax is primarily a grease-like material, so in general:

  • Water or alcohol vehicle cosmetics are ineffective.
  • Oil-like vehicle cosmetics will be compatible.

Cosmetic Application Upon a Wax Surface


  • Firming time
  • Dusting with powder
  • Liquid sealer applied over wax

Methods of Conditioning a Wax Surface for Cosmetics


Allow the wax to return to its original consistency

  • if the surface was polished with a wax solvent, allow 10-15 minutes for it to evaporate.
  • If massage cream or petroleum jelly was used on fingers and instruments to prevent sticking, brush the surface with a volatile chemical to remove the excess oil.

Firming Time


Done when the surface is tacky or slightly oily.

  • Dust with loose drying powder and remove minutes later.
  • When semi-opaque cream cosmetics are used- a massage cream base is required, so an oily surface is no problem.

Dusting with Powder


Is necessary if opaque liquid cosmetics are to be used.

  • Simulate pores and wrinkles before sealing.

Liquid Sealer Applied Over Wax


Applications are done carefully to avoid damage to the wax surface.

  • Liquid cosmetics
  • Cream cosmetics
  • Powder cosmetics

Teqchniques of Cosmetic Application on the Wax Surface


Use a soft brush.

Liquid Cosmetics


  • Warm cosmetics by spreading thinly on the palm, add massage cream if necessary.
  • Apply to the surface by tapping with the finger and blending with a soft texturizing brush.
  • Large Restorations- Apply cosmetics in smears with a soft brush and blend with a soft texturizing brush.

Cream Cosmetics


  • Thinly coat the surface with massage cream.
  • Apply powder with a powder buff (soft brush)

Powder Cosmetics


  • Usually color adjustments to the wax surface are made with the same cosmetic applied to the skin.
  • However, if necessary, other types of cosmetics may be used on the wax.
    • Unitary cream compounds (oil base)
    • Coordinating compounds

Substitution of Cosmetics for Application on Wax


Are more dense and have greater influence on color.

Unitary Cream Compounds (oil base)


Allow greater latitude becuase the proportion of each compound can be altered.

Coordinating Compounds


Adjustments are difficult at best.

  • Blotting the surface with a damn towel to remove powder may be helpful.
  • Corrections involving red- Apply a dry rouge
  • Dense cosmetic creams:
    • remove powder
    • Thin cosmetic with massage cream and apply
    • Repowder

Adjustments of the Color of Wax After Powdering


  • Generally, furrows (wrinkles) should be drawn before pores are simulated.
  • Pores can be simulated before, after or simultaneous with complexion coloring

Skin-Texture Simulation