equine science english tack

Question 0

Main types of English saddle

Answer 0

Dressage saddle, the close contact saddle, the all-purpose saddle, and the saddle seat saddle.

Question 1

History of English saddle

Answer 1

The English saddle was developed in the eighteenth century, and started with the classical dressage saddle in Europe. The saddle had a wooden frame with a high pommel and cantle. The saddle was later redesigned for foxhunting, because the high pommel and cantle interfered with the needs of the foxhunter. The new foxhunting saddle had a flat seat and a low pommel and cantle. However, the stirrup bars stayed in the same place causing another problem. Show jump and eventing caused another change in the saddle. The new jumping saddle had shorter stirrups, a forward flap, recessed stirrup bars, padding under the flap and a narrower waist.

Question 2

Dressage saddle

Answer 2

• This saddle has a long and straight flap, a deep seat with the lowest part in the center, two long billets, a round and tall cantle, and typically as large knee blocks.

Question 3

Close contact

Answer 3

• This saddle is usually brown, not black like the dressage saddle, and has a shorter flap, a flat seat, a square flat cantle with very little padding, and three short billets. The third billet is just in case one of the other billets breaks.

Question 4

All-purpose

Answer 4

• This saddle is in-between the close contact and dressage saddle. It has a medium length flap, a slightly deep seat (so more padding), and three short billets.

Question 5

Saddle seat

Answer 5

This saddle has a flat seat, straight flat, no knee rolls, cut back pommels, and two billets.

Question 6

Parts of the saddle

Answer 6

pommel, cantle, seat, flap, panel, knee roll, billets, calf block, and girth buckle guard

Question 7

Girths

Answer 7

Dressage girth: typically black and is designed for a dressage saddle. All-purpose girths: typical girths.
Jumping girths: have belly flaps which protect the horse’s stomach from their shoes

Question 8

Stirrup leathers

Answer 8

Mono stirrup leathers: loop at the top and adjust at the bottom, and have only one piece of leather. less bulk under one’s leg. Dressage
Regular stirrup leathers

Question 9

Saddle fitting

Answer 9

• Make sure saddle is in the correct position
• The panel of the saddle should be even with the top of the wither
• Angle of the panel viewed from both front and rear should be at the same angle of the horses back
• Even pressure should be felt from front to rear of the panel along the horses shoulder and back
• Spinal clearance
• Gullet channel should be at least 3 fingers
• Saddle should not be longer than the horses ribcage

Question 10

Balancing a saddle

Answer 10

Memory foam in blankets can help

Flocking: when you change the height or width of the panel in order to better the fit of the saddle.

Question 11

Why is it important for your saddle to fit properly

Answer 11

if the saddle is pinching your horse white spots appear where the hair growth did not get enough circulation

Question 12

Saddle pads

Answer 12

Square Pad
Fitted Pad
Front Riser
Back Riser

Question 13

History of the bridle

Answer 13

-First domesticated horses were ridden with some type of bitless headgear made of sinew, leather, or rope around 1400 BC
-Advancements in the bridle went along with the advancement in the bits as a means to control the horse during warfare
-Bridle and bit found around the 14th and eighth centuries BC

Question 14

Types of bridles

Answer 14

Bitless Bridle: relies on nose and pole pressure.
Snaffle Bridle
Full Bridle: has a second bit behind the curb bit
Double Bridle: also used with the second bit and the Pelhem
Dressage Bridle: has a flash, which is a nose piece in front of the cavesson

Question 15

Cavesson types

Answer 15

o Typical or General Purpose: Located just in front of the nasal cavity for support.
o Figure 8: Discourages gaping and jaw crossing by tightening around the upper and lower jaw.
o Flash: when using this you have to make sure you are not blocking nasal and not to close to the mouth; added bit support.
o Crank Cavesson: heavily padded, can be tightened without pinching.
o Drop Noseband: provides support to the lower jaw and has rings; does not sit along or pull on the horses cheek or molars, used for horses with a nervous/ busy mouth (use only with snaffle bits).

Question 16

Parts of the full bridle

Answer 16

bridoon sliphead, the loose ring bridoon bit, bridoon rein, sliding cheek curb bit, curb chain, and curb rein

Question 17

Parts of the bridle

Answer 17

headpiece, browband, throat latch, cheek piece, reins, bit, and cavesson or noseband

Question 18

Bridle fitting

Adjusting the cheek piece to adjust the bit height

Answer 18

– one to two soft wrinkles appearing at the corners of your horse’s lips as a starting point for adjusting the bit height

Question 19

Bridle fitting

Check the browband

Answer 19

– should rest lightly across the horse’s forehead, about 1⁄2 to 1 inch below the front of their ears
– Making sure it is not floppy or tight

Question 20

Bridle Fitting • Adjust the cavesson

Answer 20

– Should sit level at a point about 1⁄2 to 1 inch below the horse’s cheekbone (about 1 finger)
– Cavesson will vary in height depending on type
– Should not interfere with the bit, pinch the horse’s lips or put pressure on the soft tissue
– At least 1 finger should fit under

Question 21

Bridle fitting

Check the browband

Answer 21

– should rest lightly across the horse’s forehead, about 1⁄2 to 1 inch below the front of their ears
– Making sure it is not floppy or tight

Question 22

Materials used to make bits

Answer 22

Stainless Steel: This bit is not palatable, but it does not rust.
o Sweet Iron: This bit is palatable, but it rusts.
o Copper: This bit make horses salivate, but bits are not made entirely of copper. Instead the bits are usually stainless steel with copper inlay.
o Synthetic (or plastic or rubber): These tend to be larger in diameter and a gentler, but promote the habit of chewing.
o Aluminum: This is a lower quality bit and is not a durable metal. It is also lightweight but unpalatable.

Question 23

Parts of the bit

Answer 23

joint, bar, mouthpiece, cheek, and ring.

Question 24

History of bits

Answer 24

• There is evidence of the use of bits, in about 3500-3000 BC • The first bits were made of rope, bone, horn, or hard wood • Metal bits came into use between 1300 and 1200 BC, made of bronze • nickel used until about 1940, when it was largely replaced by stainless steel • Bridle created before the saddle • Need for control during warfare gave a need for extensive innovation in bit design, producing a variety of prototypes and styles over the centuries, from Ancient Greece into modern day use

Question 25

Hackamore

Answer 25

Works off nose pressure followed by curb pressure

Question 26

Direct pressure bits

Answer 26

Works off direct pressure for rider -If rider applies 2 pound of pressure, horse will feel 2 pounds of pressure 1. EggbuttSnaffle 2. D ring Snaffle 3. Full Cheek Snaffle 4. LooseRingSnaffle 5. Half Cheek Snaffle

Question 27

Leverage bits

Answer 27

- Works off leverage, which depends on the bit and curb pressure -If the rider applies 2 pounds of pressure the horses will feel more than 2 pounds (depending on bit) 1. Pelhem 2. Kimberwick 3. Weymouth 4. Baucher 5. Elevator

Question 28

Gag bits

Answer 28

The action almost entirely on the horse’s lips, though there is some very mild poll pressure, with little or no tongue or bar pressure.

Question 29

Material

Answer 29

Stainless steel-does not rust 2. Sweet iron- rusts very easily, very palatable to horses 3. Copper-causes the horse to salivate,bits are not made entirely of copper. Stainless Steal with Copper In lay Synthetics or plastic ("happy mouth" bits) and rubber- "soft" bits, typically larger in diameter, promotes the habit of chewing on the bit. 6. Aluminum- lower quality bits, not a desirable metal for bit construction due to its light weight and unpalatable taste